Leash pulling is one of the most common frustrations expressed by pet owners. Dogs that pull can difficult to manage, leaving many pet owners unable to provide their dogs with the exercise, stimulation, and enrichment they need. While leash pulling may seem more like a frustration than a behavior problem, it should be addressed and corrected as soon as possible to prevent more difficult issues from developing.

You will find a number pet products out there that claim to fix the pulling behavior; however nothing will completely solve the problem without actual training. Below are a few tips to help get you started with the training process. If you need further support, we suggest contacting one of our recommended dog trainers.

Pick Your Equipment
The Harness Lead and the Easy Walk Harness are both great choices. The Harness Lead is a leash and a harness all in one, and the Easy Walk offers an easily attachable harness that clips at the dog’s chest, essentially turning them around when they attempt to lunge. For stronger pullers, a head collar may be appropriate. This works similarly to a bridle on a horse, but must be used carefully and acclimated slowly. 

Teaching A Heel Command
Once you’re ready, it’s time to begin teaching your dog that good things happen when they walk at your side. Try walking just one or two steps, stop to reward your dog, and then repeat. It is important that you reward your dog with the hand that is closest to your dog as it helps train and reinforce where he is supposed to walk. For example, if your dog is walking on your right side, offer the treat from your right hand. This will help reinforce your dog to come back to the location of the treat, ultimately walking on the same side and with a loose leash. Continue this reward exercise, slowly fading away the treats as your dog becomes more and more reliable.

How To Address Pulling
Pulling is very simple in nature. All it means is that your dog wants to get to to a destination faster than you are allowing him to. Why does your dog pull? Because it has worked in the past. We fight it, which reinforces the pulling, so we give in, which also reinforces the pulling. You have to retrain a new behavior to override the existing behavior. To do this, you have two choices. First, when the leash begins to gets tense, abruptly change direction and head another way. When your dog joins you at your side, reward him. Your other option is to stop completely and back up until your dog is back at your side again. Reward, and then move forward.

This is not easy training, but it works. For pet parents who train using this technique, it works permanently. Consistent training sessions of no more than 5 – 10 minutes are all it takes to have a dog that walks beautifully on leash.

From time to time, he Virginia Beach SPCA has FIV positive cats available for adoption. While FIV is certainly a serious disease, a little extra TLC can provide these cats with a long, happy life. Here’s what you need to know if you are considering adopting an FV positive cat.

What is FIV?
Feline Immunodeficiency Virus (FIV) is a lentivirus, like HIV, that affects cats around the world. Dr. Woyma, Virginia Beach SPCA’s Medical Director, explains that the virus attacks and compromises a cat’s immune system, making FIV positive cats more susceptible to infection. FIV is often confused with Feline Leukemia Virus (FelV). While Feline Leukemia can also cause immunosuppression, Feline Leukemia also leads to the development of cancers, anemia, and kidney disease.

FIV is only contagious among cats and difficult to transmit. It is also slow-acting, so cats generally do not show any symptoms until years after being infected. The amount of time it takes for the virus to make a cat become immune compromised can vary, but once symptomatic, FIV positive cats are more vulnerable to contracting other diseases. However, with the proper care, FIV positive cats can live healthy, happy lives.

Diagnosing FIV
Since there are no obvious signs of FIV, a blood test is used to determine if a cat is FIV positive. Infected mother cats can transmit FIV antibodies to nursing kittens, which can cause kittens to test positive for a few months after birth. However, most of these kittens aren’t truly infected. The Virginia Beach SPCA recommends retesting kittens every 60 days until at least 6 months old to be sure about their FIV status. An adult cat can test positive as early as two to four weeks after exposure, but Best Friends Animal Society reports that it can take up to eight weeks in some cases. According to the ASPCA, once a cat is determined to be FIV positive, that cat is capable of transmitting the virus to other cats.

Transmitting FIV
First and foremost, only cats can contract FIV.  The virus is primarily transmitted through bite wounds, but it can also be spread through blood. Although any feline is susceptible, un-neutered, outdoor males have the highest risk of being infected because of their propensity to fight. FIV is not usually transmitted through mating. Dr. Woyma explains, “Unlike HIV, FIV is not typically spread through sexual contact and also very rarely transmitted from a mother cat to her kittens.” FIV is also rarely transmitted through casual contact, like sharing food bowls and litter boxes, social grooming, and sneezing. The unlikelihood of transmission, however, does not mean transmission isn’t possible and pet owners should always err on the side of caution.

Preventing FIV
As a responsible pet owner, it is always important to prevent exposure to FIV. The best way to prevent your cat from contracting the virus is to keep your cat indoors and never let your cat roam free outside. Indoor cats have the lowest risk of contracting the virus. In addition, if your cat is going to be spending any time around other felines, make sure all cats have tested negative for FIV. The Virginia Beach SPCA tests every cat for FIV and recommends that you learn the FIV status of any recently adopted cat prior to letting it enter your home.

Please take note that although a FIV vaccine exists, the Virginia Beach SPCA and the overwhelming majority of veterinarians do not recommend it.  In fact, the Virginia Beach SPCA does not carry the FIV vaccine at all. The vaccine has been proven to be ineffective. Additionally, your cat will always test positive after the vaccine is administered despite the vaccine’s inability to protect your cat from the virus. No test can differentiate whether a positive result is from the vaccine or from the virus, and the Best Friends Animal Society cautions that in some areas, if a cat escapes and is picked up by local animal control, the cat may be euthanized if it tests positive for FIV.

Caring for an FIV positive cat
As aforementioned above, it is extremely important to keep an FIV positive cat indoors. This not only decreases their exposure to secondary diseases, it also prevents them from spreading the disease to the rest of the feline population. Having your cat spayed or neutered is another important consideration in preventing the spread of disease, since altered animals are less likely to fight.

It’s also very important to feed your cat an appropriate, well balanced diet. For example, raw diets are becoming very trendy – however, these have the potential to contain bacterial, parasitic, or other forms of disease to which an FIV positive cat would be susceptible. Dr. Woyma also recommends that FIV positive cats have a wellness visit with their veterinarian every six months, and they should also have wellness bloodwork done routinely to monitor for any changes or early signs of disease. It is  important for pet owners to monitor their FIV positive cat very closely for any signs of disease and get any signs or symptoms addressed as soon as possible.

There is no direct treatment for FIV. Therefore, focus is on extending the asymptomatic period and easing the secondary effects of the virus. The average lifespan for an FIV positive cat is lower than average, however, FIV positive cats can still live a great life! The ASPCA agrees that infected cats receiving supportive medical care and kept in a stress-free, indoor environment can live relatively comfortable lives for months to years before the disease reaches a chronic stage. Cats with FIV can have a great quality of life for a very long time.

Interested in adopting a FIV positive cat?
Someone who wants to adopt an FIV positive cat from the Virginia Beach SPCA will receive special counseling to make sure they are well informed about the care that FIV positive cats need as well as the potential complications for their pet. As with any of our cat adoptions, we do require that the cat be kept strictly indoors. In addition, we will not adopt an FIV positive cat to into a home with any felines that are negative for FIV. Of course, we are happy to adopt out a pair of FIV positive cats or kittens together if someone is looking to add two feline family members!

Rabbits have a very complex digestive system, and making sure your rabbit is eating a proper diet is very important to your rabbit’s wellbeing. In fact, improper eating habits are closely associated with the most dangerous and common health problems in rabbits. Rabbit.org explains that rabbits, like many animals, naturally gravitate towards high calorie foods that are high in sugar or starch. Foods high in starch and sugars create a change in the pH of the cecum and eventually results in dangerous GI disease. A healthy diet consists of a variety of grass hay (80%), fresh vegetables (10%-15%), and good quality food pellets (5%-10%), all of which need to be given in proper proportions. Anything besides that should be considered a treat and given in limited quantities. Clean, fresh water needs to be available at all times, which can be dispensed in either a bottle or ceramic bowl depending on your rabbit’s preference.

Hay (80%)
The most important component of your rabbit’s diet is grass hay, rich in Vitamin A and D as well as calcium, protein and other nutrients. A diet of 80% hay can also act as preventative health care for your rabbit, promoting healthy teeth and a healthy digestive tract. Rabbits’ teeth continually grow approximately 12 centimeters a year, even their back ones. Overgrown teeth can cause many issues including eye problems, but the side-to-side motion from eating hay naturally grinds teeth from getting too long. Hay is also essential to a rabbit’s health by providing roughage which reduces the danger of hairballs. Despite regular grooming, rabbits lack the ability to cough up hairballs. Rabbits need to constantly snack on hay throughout the day to keep things moving inside and help prevent blockages, which can often be fatal. Apple tree twigs also provide good roughage but should be given as a treat and not a main food source.

You want to provide your rabbit with grass hay such as Timothy, Orchard, or Brome, and be sure to avoid legume hay like alfalfa or clover for adult rabbits. Alfalfa is like rabbit candy and contains too many calories, causes bladder stones, and puts a strain on the kidneys for an adult. However, young rabbits (under a year old) need additional energy and nutrients and should get alfalfa mixed in with their hay.

Offer your rabbit fresh hay every day, multiple times a day. Rabbit.org also recommends varying the type of grass hay or mixing grass hays together. A diversity of hay provides rabbits with small changes in smell and texture, resulting in good, consistent eaters. Different rabbits can like different kinds of hay, so be sure to take notice of your own rabbit’s preferences. Bagged hay is readily available at pet stores; however, you will go through a lot of hay in just a day or two. A more affordable option is to go to your local farm feed store and purchase a bale of horse hay (not straw) and store it upright in a large trash can. This will last a long time and save you money in the long run. Hay will last up to a year without losing any significant amount of nutrition as long as it is kept dry and out of the sun. Wet hay will mold, and sunlight decreases the nutritional value.

Pellet Food (5%-10%)
There are many brands and types of feed for rabbits, but the best brand for your rabbit is Oxbow, which is formulated with the proper vitamins and minerals for your new friend. High quality pellets are a minimum of 18% fiber and less than 2% fat. Look for food that is comprised of plain green pellets and avoid any added colorful pieces. These foods are intended to attract the human buyer, but the added pieces are not in the best interest of your rabbit’s health. Beware of foods that includes nuts, seeds, or other “treats” or colorful pieces as well as brands that use the term “gourmet”. They are usually very rich and high in fat, which can cause serious health issues for your rabbit. Variety in your rabbit’s diet should be provided by fresh vegetables and not extra ingredients in pellet food.

Besides high quality pellets, make sure not to overfeed your rabbit. Rabbits can easily become overweight if not fed the proper amount, which also leads to many health problems. For an adult rabbit, it is best to feed ¼ to ½ cup of feed per day. Rabbits under a year should be offered more since they are growing, but be sure they are eating a young rabbit formula rich that is in nutrients. You also do not want to buy a large amount of pellet food at once. Unlike hay, pellets will spoil after about 6 weeks.

Fresh Vegetables and Fruit (10%-15%)
Along with pellets and hay, your rabbit needs fresh vegetables and fruit daily. Fresh foods are an important part of your rabbit’s diet and they provide additional nutrients as well as different textures and tastes. Fresh foods are also more hydrating, which is good for kidney and bladder function. If you collect wild foods such as dandelion greens, make sure they are from a pesticide-free area and never give your rabbit grass cut by a lawnmower since chopped grass will ferment. Also try to purchase organic produce if possible, but regardless of the source, Rabbit.org advises that all fresh foods should be washed or scrubbed before being given to your rabbit.

The suggested daily amount of fresh food is 2 cups per 4-6 Ibs of your rabbit’s body weight. Introduce one new food every three days and keep a watch on the stools. Even root vegetables and fruits with high levels of sugars and starch could become a problem if fed in excess. Foods that are notorious for causing GI problems for rabbits are grains of any kind, legumes (beans, peas, etc), nuts and seeds, popcorn, garlic, potatoes, rhubarb, chocolate, and other “human treats.” Also avoid foods in the onion family such as leeks, chives, and onions since eating these foods could cause blood abnormalities. Watch your rabbit for weight loss, soft stool, or any other signs of trouble, and consult your veterinarian immediately if there are problems. It’s also a good idea to find a vet familiar with rabbits and have regular checkups, which can also help prevent obesity.

Leafy Greens
Feed your rabbit at least 3 types of leafy greens a day, and mix it up by rotating between different greens your rabbit will enjoy. Rabbits have a higher risk of calcium problems, so give your rabbit smaller amounts of high calcium greens. Reference the list below to help distinguish between low calcium and high calcium greens. Never feed your rabbit iceberg lettuce.

Low Calcium Greens (pick 2 out of 3)

High Calcium Greens (pick 1 out of 3)

Non-Leafy Vegetables (A recommended daily amount to feed your rabbit is about 1 tablespoon per 2 lbs of body weight).

Fruits
Fruits can also be fed in small amounts and make great training treats! Feeding treats by hand is also a great way to develop a close bond with your bunny. Rabbit.org recommends feeding about 1 teaspoon of fruit per 2 lbs of body weight per day. Remember to feed your rabbit a lesser amount of dried fruits, which are about 3 times as concentrated as fresh fruit. Usually it is more nutritious to leave the skin on the fruit. However, remove the skin if you are concerned about chemicals.

For more information on treats and enrichment, check out our article: How to Keep Your Bunny Fun(ny).