Bringing a new dog home is an exciting time for a family, and you want to be sure you’re taking the right steps to welcome your new friend into an unfamiliar space. Even though going to a forever home is an awesome upgrade from a shelter, an unfamiliar environment can still be scary. Many pets will make housebreaking mistakes, hide, or spend long amounts of time looking from room to room. Puppies that are used to sleeping with siblings could cry or whine for several nights. To help welcome your new family member, here are a few tips to ensure your pet experiences an easy and successful transition into your home:

What You Need To Get Started
Having the right supplies is instrumental to easing your new dog’s transition from shelter to home. Below are a list of supplies along with our recommendations to help get you started:

Essentials:

• Crate* – Precision Pet Care Crate
• Collar* – ECO Lupine collars
• Harness/Leash* – Harness lead
• Food/Water bowls (sample bag of food is supplied to you)
• Bed
• Toys – choose a variety that’s appropriate for your dog’s play style or needs; i.e. fetch toys, teething toys, plush toys, etc. Busy Buddy toys are a staff favorite!
• Treats – choose a variety for training, chewing, special crate treat, etc.
• Waste bags for walks

*These items are required at the time of adoption.

Additional:

• Flea and tick preventative (6 months Heartworm preventative is included with adoption)
• Grooming supplies  – supplies based on your dog’s coat, cleaning aids for teeth and ears, and nail clippers. VBSPCA Aloe & Oatmeal Shampoo is great to have onhand.
• House training supplies – puppy pads, enzyme cleaner

Dog-proof Your Home
Before bringing your new friend home, be sure to move anything chewable up and out of the way. A resident dog might not be as interested, but a new dog will be ready to explore. Some items might be obvious, but you will also want to position yourself so you are at a dog’s level to see what your dog will see. Give a thorough look around and make sure nothing potentially harmful is in reach. This will help prevent your dog from chewing your shoes, books, toys,  remotes, or other household items that may be enticing to a curious pet. Dogs also tend to chew on electrical cords, so tuck those away and out of sight.  This might mean you will need to gate off certain areas of the house, specifically the kitchen and living room. You may also want to use a gate to block off the stairway, prohibiting access up or down the stairs.

Create a Sanctuary Space
As much as we want to spoil our new family member and give full access to his or her new home, your home is not yet a familiar place and your new dog needs time to adjust. How much time is different for every dog, and it’s recommended to start small.  Creating a smaller, safe space where your dog can leave/smell his or her own scent allows your new family member to feel ownership of the space, which helps to increase confidence and reduce any stress.

A great way to create this space for dogs is crate training, which can also help with separation anxiety and other concerns when a dog is first introduced to a new home. Set up a bed inside a crate and make this your new dog’s sanctuary space.

Crates
The right crate size should be tall enough so your dog can stand up comfortably and wide enough for your dog to turn around. The crate shouldn’t be too large, however, with just enough space for a bed and food/water bowls. We recommend the Precision Pet Care Crate. This crate has 2 doors, a secure lock system, rust resistant, black e-coat finish for extra longevity, and an easy to clean polypropylene plastic pan. Plus if you have a growing puppy, this crate comes with a divider panel that allows you to adjust the size of the crate as your puppy grows. The Precision Pet Care Crate also folds down to store and transport and is available for purchase at our Holland Road shelter as well as the VBSPCA Pet Supplies & Adoption Center.

Crate training tips:

• Make the crate a soft and warm environment with blankets. It’s also recommended to lessen the lighting by draping a blanket over the crate..
• Find a location that’s best for your dog. Either in a calmer area of the home or a human-centered location like where everyone sits to watch TV.
• Feed your dog meals in the crate and/or give your dog special treats only when in the crate.
• Have positive associations happen in the crate while you’re at home so your dog will not associate being in the crate to being alone or times when you’re gone.
• Don’t approach leaving the crate as a reward by getting your dog excited to come out. Wait until your dog is quiet with all four paws on the floor before opening the crate.

Facilitate Responsible Introductions
If you already have a pet in your family, have a meet-and-greet in neutral territory before bringing the new pet into the home. The Virginia Beach SPCA requires and conducts a meet-and-greet with any resident dog(s) prior to adoption; This is scheduled after an adoption application is submitted and is a way for us to see how the dogs will behave towards each other prior to bringing a new dog home. If you have other pets such as small animals or a cat, you will want to introduce them slowly and with supervision. Let them sniff each other through the door first so they can familiarize themselves with the new smells before seeing each other. It also helps to associate the other pet’s smell with something positive, like feeding them on opposite sides of the door around the other pet’s scent.

When your pets do meet face to face, try to keep it short and sweet. Your dog(s) should be safely restrained on a leash during initial introductions. If your dog appears to over-focus on your other pet, see if you’re able to distract your dog with a toy, treat, or by calling your dog over to you. If you’re not able to get your dog to look away/break eye contact, end the face-to-face introduction and try again at a later time. It might take some time for them to get used to each other, and that’s okay, but make sure you don’t force interaction as this could cause aggression and fights. Pay attention to body language. Reactions  like “freezing” could be a sign that your dog is stressed and uncomfortable and needs a break away from your other pets. If necessary, they may need to go to their sanctuary space to relax. If you continue to have problems, please give us a call. Shelter staff and our Pet Academy trainers are happy to help!

Provide Supervision and Space
The time it takes to acclimate is different for every dog. For the first week or so, your new dog might need some space. Let your new dog explore the new environment at their pace, and if your new dog still prefers to be away from the family, allow it. However, even when allowing extra space, remember to keep an eye on your new pet to prevent any chewing, accidents, or potentially dangerous situations. You will also want to give your new pet time to get used to the new environment before meeting extended family and friends. Two weeks is typically a good adjustment period, after which you can slowly introduce your new pet to new faces. However, be sure to keep an eye out for signs of stress, such as panting, running away, cowering, growling, or pacing around the home. If these signs appear, give your pet some more time before any more introductions.

Stick to a Consistent Schedule
Set your dog up for success by starting a regular schedule as soon as possible. An inconsistent schedule is confusing for dogs and may contribute to behavioral problems. Try to keep feeding times and bathroom breaks on a consistent schedule. The general rule for bathroom breaks is dogs up to 6 months of age should be let out at least every 4 hours. Older dogs may need more frequent breaks depending on size and age. Pets thrive with routines as it helps with an overall feeling of security.

What Food Should I Use?
You will be provided with a starter supply of Purina One, or any specialized food your new family member is currently eating at the VBSPCA. Keeping food familiar can help to reduce stress after a change in environment and is also easier on a dog’s stomach. If you prefer to change brands, slowly transition by adding 25% of the new food into their current diet. Every few days, increase the amount to 50%, then 75% until switching over to the new food completely. Gradually changing their diet gives their digestive system time to adjust which helps prevent an upset stomach. If the animal is on a special diet, please check with your vet before making any changes.

Food packaging  provides a guideline on how much to feed your pet based on weight. However, all pets are different and you should check with your veterinarian if you notice your dog is gaining too much weight. Pet obesity is a growing problem so we cannot stress this enough. Anxiety can also cause pets to eat very little or refuse to eat at first. Try adding wet food to your pet’s dish to encourage him or her to eat. If your pet is not eating after 24 hours, please contact the shelter or your veterinarian.

Offer Plenty of Toys, Exercise, and Training
Make sure your new dog gets plenty of exercise, and this doesn’t just mean walks. You will need to engage your pet in games of fetch, tug, and chase. Regular exercise will help prevent unwanted behaviors such as digging, chewing, and barking, while also providing quality time for you and your pet to bond. In addition to exercise, have lots of interactive toys on hand and don’t forget to reward your dog with healthy treats! You can also sign up for dog training classes which will strengthen the relationship between you and your pet while also establishing healthy discipline and good dog behavior. You might even learn some fun tricks, too!

We recommend Busy Buddy dog toys by PetSafe as a fun and positive and training tool for pups of all ages. Made of thick, durable rubber, these toys are are a great for separation anxiety, boredom, exercise, chewing, barking, digging, training rewards, and crate training. Each toy is designed for a new challenge, and with available sizes ranging from extra small to extra large, it’s easy to find the perfect fit for your new dog!

Remember to be Patient
Patience is the key ingredient to the successful integration of a new pet into a home. Every animal has his or her own individual personality and it will take time for both of you to settle in to your new family. Some dogs may develop new behaviors once your dog feels comfortable and confident in your home that were not seen at the shelter.  If these new behaviors are not desired, VBSPCA Pet Academy offers a variety of different training classes and workshops and our trainers are happy to help!

From time to time, he Virginia Beach SPCA has FIV positive cats available for adoption. While FIV is certainly a serious disease, a little extra TLC can provide these cats with a long, happy life. Here’s what you need to know if you are considering adopting an FV positive cat.

What is FIV?
Feline Immunodeficiency Virus (FIV) is a lentivirus, like HIV, that affects cats around the world. Dr. Woyma, Virginia Beach SPCA’s Medical Director, explains that the virus attacks and compromises a cat’s immune system, making FIV positive cats more susceptible to infection. FIV is often confused with Feline Leukemia Virus (FelV). While Feline Leukemia can also cause immunosuppression, Feline Leukemia also leads to the development of cancers, anemia, and kidney disease.

FIV is only contagious among cats and difficult to transmit. It is also slow-acting, so cats generally do not show any symptoms until years after being infected. The amount of time it takes for the virus to make a cat become immune compromised can vary, but once symptomatic, FIV positive cats are more vulnerable to contracting other diseases. However, with the proper care, FIV positive cats can live healthy, happy lives.

Diagnosing FIV
Since there are no obvious signs of FIV, a blood test is used to determine if a cat is FIV positive. Infected mother cats can transmit FIV antibodies to nursing kittens, which can cause kittens to test positive for a few months after birth. However, most of these kittens aren’t truly infected. The Virginia Beach SPCA recommends retesting kittens every 60 days until at least 6 months old to be sure about their FIV status. An adult cat can test positive as early as two to four weeks after exposure, but Best Friends Animal Society reports that it can take up to eight weeks in some cases. According to the ASPCA, once a cat is determined to be FIV positive, that cat is capable of transmitting the virus to other cats.

Transmitting FIV
First and foremost, only cats can contract FIV.  The virus is primarily transmitted through bite wounds, but it can also be spread through blood. Although any feline is susceptible, un-neutered, outdoor males have the highest risk of being infected because of their propensity to fight. FIV is not usually transmitted through mating. Dr. Woyma explains, “Unlike HIV, FIV is not typically spread through sexual contact and also very rarely transmitted from a mother cat to her kittens.” FIV is also rarely transmitted through casual contact, like sharing food bowls and litter boxes, social grooming, and sneezing. The unlikelihood of transmission, however, does not mean transmission isn’t possible and pet owners should always err on the side of caution.

Preventing FIV
As a responsible pet owner, it is always important to prevent exposure to FIV. The best way to prevent your cat from contracting the virus is to keep your cat indoors and never let your cat roam free outside. Indoor cats have the lowest risk of contracting the virus. In addition, if your cat is going to be spending any time around other felines, make sure all cats have tested negative for FIV. The Virginia Beach SPCA tests every cat for FIV and recommends that you learn the FIV status of any recently adopted cat prior to letting it enter your home.

Please take note that although a FIV vaccine exists, the Virginia Beach SPCA and the overwhelming majority of veterinarians do not recommend it.  In fact, the Virginia Beach SPCA does not carry the FIV vaccine at all. The vaccine has been proven to be ineffective. Additionally, your cat will always test positive after the vaccine is administered despite the vaccine’s inability to protect your cat from the virus. No test can differentiate whether a positive result is from the vaccine or from the virus, and the Best Friends Animal Society cautions that in some areas, if a cat escapes and is picked up by local animal control, the cat may be euthanized if it tests positive for FIV.

Caring for an FIV positive cat
As aforementioned above, it is extremely important to keep an FIV positive cat indoors. This not only decreases their exposure to secondary diseases, it also prevents them from spreading the disease to the rest of the feline population. Having your cat spayed or neutered is another important consideration in preventing the spread of disease, since altered animals are less likely to fight.

It’s also very important to feed your cat an appropriate, well balanced diet. For example, raw diets are becoming very trendy – however, these have the potential to contain bacterial, parasitic, or other forms of disease to which an FIV positive cat would be susceptible. Dr. Woyma also recommends that FIV positive cats have a wellness visit with their veterinarian every six months, and they should also have wellness bloodwork done routinely to monitor for any changes or early signs of disease. It is  important for pet owners to monitor their FIV positive cat very closely for any signs of disease and get any signs or symptoms addressed as soon as possible.

There is no direct treatment for FIV. Therefore, focus is on extending the asymptomatic period and easing the secondary effects of the virus. The average lifespan for an FIV positive cat is lower than average, however, FIV positive cats can still live a great life! The ASPCA agrees that infected cats receiving supportive medical care and kept in a stress-free, indoor environment can live relatively comfortable lives for months to years before the disease reaches a chronic stage. Cats with FIV can have a great quality of life for a very long time.

Interested in adopting a FIV positive cat?
Someone who wants to adopt an FIV positive cat from the Virginia Beach SPCA will receive special counseling to make sure they are well informed about the care that FIV positive cats need as well as the potential complications for their pet. As with any of our cat adoptions, we do require that the cat be kept strictly indoors. In addition, we will not adopt an FIV positive cat to into a home with any felines that are negative for FIV. Of course, we are happy to adopt out a pair of FIV positive cats or kittens together if someone is looking to add two feline family members!

Rabbits have a very complex digestive system, and making sure your rabbit is eating a proper diet is very important to your rabbit’s wellbeing. In fact, improper eating habits are closely associated with the most dangerous and common health problems in rabbits. Rabbit.org explains that rabbits, like many animals, naturally gravitate towards high calorie foods that are high in sugar or starch. Foods high in starch and sugars create a change in the pH of the cecum and eventually results in dangerous GI disease. A healthy diet consists of a variety of grass hay (80%), fresh vegetables (10%-15%), and good quality food pellets (5%-10%), all of which need to be given in proper proportions. Anything besides that should be considered a treat and given in limited quantities. Clean, fresh water needs to be available at all times, which can be dispensed in either a bottle or ceramic bowl depending on your rabbit’s preference.

Hay (80%)
The most important component of your rabbit’s diet is grass hay, rich in Vitamin A and D as well as calcium, protein and other nutrients. A diet of 80% hay can also act as preventative health care for your rabbit, promoting healthy teeth and a healthy digestive tract. Rabbits’ teeth continually grow approximately 12 centimeters a year, even their back ones. Overgrown teeth can cause many issues including eye problems, but the side-to-side motion from eating hay naturally grinds teeth from getting too long. Hay is also essential to a rabbit’s health by providing roughage which reduces the danger of hairballs. Despite regular grooming, rabbits lack the ability to cough up hairballs. Rabbits need to constantly snack on hay throughout the day to keep things moving inside and help prevent blockages, which can often be fatal. Apple tree twigs also provide good roughage but should be given as a treat and not a main food source.

You want to provide your rabbit with grass hay such as Timothy, Orchard, or Brome, and be sure to avoid legume hay like alfalfa or clover for adult rabbits. Alfalfa is like rabbit candy and contains too many calories, causes bladder stones, and puts a strain on the kidneys for an adult. However, young rabbits (under a year old) need additional energy and nutrients and should get alfalfa mixed in with their hay.

Offer your rabbit fresh hay every day, multiple times a day. Rabbit.org also recommends varying the type of grass hay or mixing grass hays together. A diversity of hay provides rabbits with small changes in smell and texture, resulting in good, consistent eaters. Different rabbits can like different kinds of hay, so be sure to take notice of your own rabbit’s preferences. Bagged hay is readily available at pet stores; however, you will go through a lot of hay in just a day or two. A more affordable option is to go to your local farm feed store and purchase a bale of horse hay (not straw) and store it upright in a large trash can. This will last a long time and save you money in the long run. Hay will last up to a year without losing any significant amount of nutrition as long as it is kept dry and out of the sun. Wet hay will mold, and sunlight decreases the nutritional value.

Pellet Food (5%-10%)
There are many brands and types of feed for rabbits, but the best brand for your rabbit is Oxbow, which is formulated with the proper vitamins and minerals for your new friend. High quality pellets are a minimum of 18% fiber and less than 2% fat. Look for food that is comprised of plain green pellets and avoid any added colorful pieces. These foods are intended to attract the human buyer, but the added pieces are not in the best interest of your rabbit’s health. Beware of foods that includes nuts, seeds, or other “treats” or colorful pieces as well as brands that use the term “gourmet”. They are usually very rich and high in fat, which can cause serious health issues for your rabbit. Variety in your rabbit’s diet should be provided by fresh vegetables and not extra ingredients in pellet food.

Besides high quality pellets, make sure not to overfeed your rabbit. Rabbits can easily become overweight if not fed the proper amount, which also leads to many health problems. For an adult rabbit, it is best to feed ¼ to ½ cup of feed per day. Rabbits under a year should be offered more since they are growing, but be sure they are eating a young rabbit formula rich that is in nutrients. You also do not want to buy a large amount of pellet food at once. Unlike hay, pellets will spoil after about 6 weeks.

Fresh Vegetables and Fruit (10%-15%)
Along with pellets and hay, your rabbit needs fresh vegetables and fruit daily. Fresh foods are an important part of your rabbit’s diet and they provide additional nutrients as well as different textures and tastes. Fresh foods are also more hydrating, which is good for kidney and bladder function. If you collect wild foods such as dandelion greens, make sure they are from a pesticide-free area and never give your rabbit grass cut by a lawnmower since chopped grass will ferment. Also try to purchase organic produce if possible, but regardless of the source, Rabbit.org advises that all fresh foods should be washed or scrubbed before being given to your rabbit.

The suggested daily amount of fresh food is 2 cups per 4-6 Ibs of your rabbit’s body weight. Introduce one new food every three days and keep a watch on the stools. Even root vegetables and fruits with high levels of sugars and starch could become a problem if fed in excess. Foods that are notorious for causing GI problems for rabbits are grains of any kind, legumes (beans, peas, etc), nuts and seeds, popcorn, garlic, potatoes, rhubarb, chocolate, and other “human treats.” Also avoid foods in the onion family such as leeks, chives, and onions since eating these foods could cause blood abnormalities. Watch your rabbit for weight loss, soft stool, or any other signs of trouble, and consult your veterinarian immediately if there are problems. It’s also a good idea to find a vet familiar with rabbits and have regular checkups, which can also help prevent obesity.

Leafy Greens
Feed your rabbit at least 3 types of leafy greens a day, and mix it up by rotating between different greens your rabbit will enjoy. Rabbits have a higher risk of calcium problems, so give your rabbit smaller amounts of high calcium greens. Reference the list below to help distinguish between low calcium and high calcium greens. Never feed your rabbit iceberg lettuce.

Low Calcium Greens (pick 2 out of 3)

High Calcium Greens (pick 1 out of 3)

Non-Leafy Vegetables (A recommended daily amount to feed your rabbit is about 1 tablespoon per 2 lbs of body weight).

Fruits
Fruits can also be fed in small amounts and make great training treats! Feeding treats by hand is also a great way to develop a close bond with your bunny. Rabbit.org recommends feeding about 1 teaspoon of fruit per 2 lbs of body weight per day. Remember to feed your rabbit a lesser amount of dried fruits, which are about 3 times as concentrated as fresh fruit. Usually it is more nutritious to leave the skin on the fruit. However, remove the skin if you are concerned about chemicals.

For more information on treats and enrichment, check out our article: How to Keep Your Bunny Fun(ny).